Saturday, November 20, 2010

The Highest Mountain

We’re off to see the Wild West show,
The elephant and the kangaroo oohooo
Never mind the weather
We’re off to something better
We’re off to see the Wild West show

It’s astounding
Time is flying
Madness
Takes control

Getting out of the city. Out of the compound. Out of the villa. Out of my room! Enough to set the mind in motion: Oh happy day…

Out of Khamis, through Abha. The beautiful Abha, so close and yet so far. Don’t they need teachers there? Abha is the main town of the Asir Province. It has the best climate – delightfully cool. It is situated high in the Sarawat mountains that climb towards Yemen. It is a gracious town. 

                        Small villages with terraced farms cluster on the hill tops. 



                          Watchtowers that dot the horizon tell of a troubled past. 



The most distinctive of the local tribes are the Tuhama. They are of short wiry build with gaunt, striking faces and long curly hair, oiled with butter. They wear an izar (skirt) and carry short swords. They normally won’t allow photographs unless they have been touched by Western civilization and if they believe it is going to help sell their produce.


 

To the east of Abha we travel down an insignificant dirt road. The remains of an ancient Turkish fort (Ottoman Empire) are where we stop. 



We look across the valley to a modern road far below. It winds along the mountain and stretches to eternity. Upon closer inspection, a camel track is noticeable above the new road. Caravans use to pass along it carrying incense and spices from the East to Egypt and the Roman Empire – referred to in history as the Frankinsence Route. (I resolve to read more about it.) 



A young local appears from nowhere and perches himself on the very edge. He pretends not to notice us although he is very aware of our presence. He tilts his head slightly and I can see his profile. I pretend not to notice him either, but find myself staring in fascination. This is not a tourist destination and we are the only people around. He just sits there, claiming his territory.

 

We continue the drive around the outskirts of Abha till we reach the highest peak – Al Souda. It is hard to imagine that we are still in Saudi. At 3000m it is the highest point in the Kingdom. We can see the mist rolling in from the coast. 


 
 It is also known as Green Mountain. Not the green you’d find in Europe, but green in comparison to the surrounding dessert. At the top there is a cable car that passes along part of the mountain and across Abha. I think I will have to save this for another day. 

1 comment: